Tausi Insider

Sorry about the stained tea towel. I am only human. Photo : Claire Lower Yams and sweet potatoes are sweet. No one can dispute this. There’s a reason they’re just as at home in a pie as they are as a side dish. Even so, a lot of people insist on adding brown sugar, candied nuts, and marshmallows to the orange tubers, because sugar tastes good. Marshmallows are a bit too cloying for me, however . In the past, I’ve made my own marshmallow fluff to cut down on the sugar and add a little spicy ginger , but I should have just made a Swiss meringue. It’s easier to make and work with than marshmallow fluff , and it browns and crisps in a way that marshmallows simply cannot . If you’ve never made a Swiss meringue before, it’s just like making any other meringue, with one extra step: Instead of whipping raw egg whites with super fine or powdered sugar, you combine the whites with table sugar, then heat the mixture over a double boiler until the sugar dissolves . (Rub a bit between you...